Going global // Designers draw on a world of inspiration for spring wear

The world certainly seems to be getting smaller, especially when itcomes to fashion. This spring, everyone from high-end designers tomass manufacturers has been bitten by the global bug. And that meansthat women who visit stores will find vast varieties of clothes andaccessories that draw their inspiration from far-off cultures.

This spring, items with a distinctly African twist are hot. Soare pieces that look like they would be right at home in the FarEast. And all things Latin and South American add a distinctivespice to the style mix.

Gillion Skellenger-Carrara, manager of the Fashion ResourceCenter and associate professor at the School of the Art Institute ofChicago, thinks the global ethnic trend is partly a reaction to allthe minimalism we've seen in womenswear the past few seasons. Plus,it's part of the new world order."Public events have made certain countries newsworthy, likechanges in China, and the things Nelson Mandela is trying to do inSouth Africa," she says. "Music is so global now, and music and whatperformers are wearing influence fashion. The Internet and MTV arebringing us all so close together.""I'm a big believer in things being more universal," says BobbiAllen, whose stylish Oak Park boutique, Nothing in Moderation, catersto full-figured women. "We're children of a great big world - if youthink you like the design or the color (of an item), then wear it."Since opening in 1994, Allen's store has featured items withcross-cultural style. In stock now are lightweight painted silktunic tops and dresses that utilize shiboni, an old Japanese dyeprocess. Antique Oriental rugs get stitched into bags and briefcasesmade by Majid. Mudcloth scarves embroidered with African cowrieshells sell to customers of all races, as do vegetable-dyed cottontote bags made by Guatemalan weavers."What I try to do is find those sort of handcrafts we can use ina modern way in a modern world," Allen says.Susan Lazar, a New York designer who's had her own label forthree years, used 1950s Havana as her starting point for spring. Afriend had recently visited Cuba, bringing back bright-hued handbagswith melons, browns, brick reds and hot pinks all mixed together.Lazar had just visited Miami's hot South Beach, and the buzz aboutMadonna's film turn in "Evita" was in the air. All this inspiredLazar to infuse her spring collection with dance-ready dresses inslinky stretch jersey and knits, in eye-catching colors."I love the sexiness and sultriness of the culture," says Lazar,who recently made a personal appearance at Henri Bendel's downtownstore. "For me, it was a good kickoff for spring, being able to workthat culture into my sensibility."It's never that literal. I don't like it when women looklike they're wearing costumes. Women want modern clothes that fitinto the '90s, not the '50s."Also on the global ethnic bandwagon are designers such as RalphLauren, whose entire spring line was a stunning tribute to Africa.BCBG's Max Azria caught Cuban fever for spring, using ruffled hemsand spicy colors in his line. For their bridge-priced D&G line,Italy's Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana shaped kimono-stylejackets out of Japanese-inspired floral fabrics. And some borrowfrom their own heritages, as Asian-American designers Han Feng andVivienne Tam have done."Our world is getting smaller," Skellenger-Carrara says, "and Ihope it's for the better. Mixing Asian and African and NativeAmerican (influences) creates excitement and something new, andthat's what fashion's all about."